Brno, Repubblica Ceca
5 febbraio 1993
Once upon a time there was climbing, made of attempts and more attempts to FREE climb this or that pitch, and this was true also for champions, but, suddenly, one day a young Czech boy arrived and climbing was revolutionized. His name is Adam Ondra and his ventures are incredible, 9a and 9a+ on sight, both on the rock and in competitions. Adam climbs because climbing is happiness: he dreams and makes us dream both when he is climbing boulders or long routes. He is a fan of Wolfgang Güllich («because he was a well-rounded climber») and on the 26th of July, 2008, he cleaned the difficult WoGü route dedicated to the dead climber. That day Pietro Dal Pra was with him on the silver cliff of Rätikon and after having completed the venture said some emblematical words: «I have never seen anything like this. I have seen something new. A new higher level in climbing that I couldn’t even imagine».
IFSC WC Kranj 2015
ADAM ONDRA: ILLUSIONIST 9A - NORWAY
CHANGE - BACKSTAGE MOVIE
ADAM ONDRA - WORKING MOVE 9B/+
ADAM ONDRA 2 V16s
Reportage from the last comp - written by Adam Ondra
Recently I have been training a lot exclusively for the competitions. I feel in a good shape, nevertheless I completely messed up the first two stages of World cup. The first stage in China I didn't make it to the finals due to slip, in Chamonix I didn't make it to the semifinals because of skipping the first bolts in the qualification. I intended to clip the first two quickdraws in one movement, but the rope stayed probably just at the edge of the gate of the first draw, and as I was doing the second clip, the rope popped of from the first bolt. Being quite angry and not sure about my shape, we made our way to Gravere in Italy the very next day. There is the route TCT 9a to be found. It is a tribute to Tito Claudio Traversa, who unfortunately left too early. I wish I could climb again with this little big guy! The route was first ascended by Stefano Ghislofi this spring. I warmed up and honestly, I didn't feel super strong. But suddenly the wind started blowing and I set off. I felt pretty weightless, made the first part which is 8c and felt really fresh. I was resting for quite a long time on the sloppy rail and then continued. The upper crux I crushed, feeling almost impossibly strong. I clipped the chains a minute later. I didn't know if it felt like 9a to me, at least Stefano is already experienced 9a climber and to him, it seemed like the hardest route he has ever done. At least it was a good satisfaction after the lost Chamonix comp. The very same day we drove over the pass to reach Briancon area, specifically the crag of Fournel. Here I had one more 9a. The route definintely wasn't the easiest tick for an onsight, it was pretty tricky, lots of heelhooks, weird moves... But somehow I managed to get through the crux, I was resting three minutes in a jug and I started to move for the next hold, the very same jug broke off. It was just a pumpy topout to go, but I suceeded in doing it second try. Pretty satisfied we moved further south and after restday I did Mission Imposible 8c onsight in Orpierre and the same day in the evening Super Plafond 8c+ onsight in Volx. About the last route I was the happiest, because I would never think that it would be onsight such a bouldery in an old historic crag. But I felt almost immortal, pulling on the holds in the roof. Strange thing was that the very next day I felt so hopeless on Biographie 9a+ in Ceuse. I was like a different man, no power at all. But let's see what happens after the restday... Anyway, it feels so good to be on the road again, staying in the van in nice landscapes. It makes me feel like living, and realize how lucky I am to live the way I live, and to be surrounded by such a fatastic people.
New project for the autumn
I have been focusing on training lately. After I came back from Norway in the end of Septemer, I had to adapt to new way of life. Going to school, being more structured and "forced" to train in a good way. Nevertheless, I thought I was in a good shape and therefore I visited in the afternoons after school my home climbing area to try one hard project. I bolted this project 5 years ago, I could do all the moves even last year, but never got the chance t work on it seriously. I started working on it this autumn again, but even after 4 days I felt no progression. The route consists of 8 meters hard 8b route into 8B+ boulder problem. I could do the crux by itself, but even adding two extra moves felt impossible. I also went to Italy, where I had a slideshow in Belluno in the Dolomites and attended very nice event "Finale for Nepal" in Liguria. I had a possibilty to climb one day in Dolomites, so I took advatage of it and called Manolo if he could show me his masterpiece "Eternit". This route is totally insane! Imagine perfectly vertical wall, 25 meters high and difficulty of 9a. If you make the math, it is obvious that the holds you climb on are definitely not jugs. We spent a nice day, working the moves on this rig, being occasionally in the thick fog or full sunshine. Conditions were not perfect, but at least I could do the moves and I have it wired for the next visit. On the way back home we made a stop in Innsbruck in the gym, where I was horrified by indoor-fitness, so I forced to admit that it was time for some hard indoor training if I want to do well on the last two World cups this November. And be fit for the other goals I want to accomplish this autumn. So I spent last three weeks training indoors and I am curious if it isi going to pay off.