Montura

 

MAURIZIO GIAROLLI

MAURIZIO GIAROLLI
Bio

On 5 November 1987, their fourth day of climbing, nine-hundred metres of void lie below Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi: their goal is close. But between them and the summit of Torre Egger, the splendid as much as cantankerous smaller sister of Cerro Torre, sits an ice mushroom that seems to be saying “turn back, you won’t get past me”. So they’ve reached the end, forced to bail at one step from success? Fortunately not, as the wind has been working in their favour, biting through the mushroom from bottom to top, creating a vertical narrow burrow inside the ice. Maurizio slips into that incredible tunnel, and ninety metres higher, again peeks out into the sky. The summit is there, the dream of Titanic, a masterpiece along the east pillar of Torre Egger, accomplished. For Maurizio (nicknamed “Icio”) this signifies the nth success in Patagonia, after Cerro Torre in summer and winter, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and the first ascent of Magico Est on the Central Tower of Paine. Over the next years, follow, still in Patagonia, "Otra vez" on Cerro Standhardt’s west face, "Gracias a la vida" on Punta Herron’s west pillar and "Cristalli nel vento" up Cerro Torre’s west pillar. Well, the history of alpinism in Patagonia also passes by the adventures of Icio who was born in 1958 and lives in the Val di Sole, with the mountains in his soul.

My words

VELACLIMBING

TORRE EGGER 1987 | PATAGONIA

On 5 November 1987, their fourth day of climbing, nine-hundred metres of void lie below Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi: their goal is close. But between them and the summit of Torre Egger, the splendid as much as cantankerous smaller sister of Cerro Torre, sits an ice mushroom that seems to be saying “turn back, you won’t get past me”. So they’ve reached the end, forced to bail at one step from success? Fortunately not, as the wind has been working in their favour, biting through the mushroom from bottom to top, creating a vertical narrow burrow inside the ice. Maurizio slips into that incredible tunnel, and ninety metres higher, again peeks out into the sky. The summit is there, the dream of Titanic, a masterpiece along the east pillar of Torre Egger, accomplished. For Maurizio (nicknamed “Icio”) this signifies the nth success in Patagonia, after Cerro Torre in summer and winter, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and the first ascent of Magico Est on the Central Tower of Paine. Over the next years, follow, still in Patagonia, Otra vez on Cerro Standhardt’s west face, Gracias a la vida on Punta Herron’s west pillar and Cristalli nel vento up Cerro Torre’s west pillar. Well, the history of alpinism in Patagonia also passes by the adventures of Icio who was born in 1958 and lives in the Val di Sole, with the mountains in his soul.