FIRST ITALIAN REPEAT OF GOGNA-CERRUTI ROUTE ON ZMUTT-NOSE OF MATTERHORN

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Important climb for François Cazzanelli - Mountain Guide and Athlete Montura - and his mates on the North Face of the Matterhorn

Between 26 and 27 September: François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina e Marco Majori - Sezione Militare di Alta Montagna, Reparto Attività Sportive del Centro Sportivo Esercito of Courmayeur - repeated the prestigious route opened by Alessandro Gogna and Leo Cerruti in 1969 on the North Face of the Zmutt-Nose, Matterhorn. For years this climb was considered one of the most difficult routes in the Western Alps, certainly the masterpiece of Alessandro Gogna, graded ED+, with a vertical altitude of 1050 meters, 400 meters of mixed terrain, 400 meters vertical and 200 meters that converge on the Zmutt Ridge. It is the seventh repetition and the first by Italian climners.

First picture: the north face of the Matterhorn with the Zmutt-Nose (photo by B. Perren from "Alp", n. 235, p. 89). The red line is the Gogna Cerruti route (1969, 14-17 July, 1200 m, VI+ and A3, ED+). Courtesy of iborderline.net

The story of the climb, directly from the Alessandro Gogna blog.