MATTEO GIGLIO AND ARNAUD CLAVEL CLIMBED BONATTI-VAUCHER ON THE NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSES
In the fiftieth anniversary of the opening of the last great Bonatti route on Mont Blanc
«August 1964, in four epic days of climbing (after many unsuccessful attempts), Walter Bonatti and Michel Vaucher opened the direct route on the Whymper Spur, North face of Grandes Jorasses. A route extremely difficult, in fact stated ED ... but re-evaluated ED + by the first repeaters" - so begins the fascinating report by Matteo Giglio about the recent repeat of the route that ended the mountaineering career of Walter Bonatti due to the high risks experienced during the opening. His climbing mate was Michel Vaucher, one of the strongest French climbers in those days. Bonatti, came forth from Jorasses, decided to stop with the extreme mountaineering. He had to do the last exploit to close in beauty: the solo winter on the Matterhorn North face, searching a new route.
Saturday, September 13, 2014, 50 years after the opening, on a day meteorologically perfect, optimal conditions of snow and ice, on the most difficult sections of Bonatti-Vaucher route, have allowed the strong Italian roped party of Alpine Guides to move forward with beautiful and rapid progression. In just 13 hours of the beginning of the climbing, alternate leads, Matthew and Arnaud reached the summit of the Whymper Spur.
For more information on the Bonatti-Vaucher - 1100 m, VI WI5 M6 + R - visit our testimonial website >> www.matteogiglio.it