The Grand Capucin, a majestic granite obelisk rising to nearly 4,000 meters in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif, represents a challenge that demands the very best from every alpinist. For Montura Ambassador Urko Carmona, its sheer walls and demanding routes are more than a dream destination—they reflect his philosophy of life: climbing not merely as a sport, but as a pursuit of freedom and a way to fully embrace the present moment.

An imagined ascent, a real achievement


The ascent of the Grand Capucin does not appear in my official record, yet every time I see myself on that summit, I relive another story of commitment and perseverance. The climb does not begin at the base of the wall, where the silence of the glacier is broken only by the wind and the sound of ice cracking beneath crampons and crutches. It begins four days earlier, after climbing several routes independently with my partner, Guillermo Forte, on the face of the Aiguille de Blaitière. We decide to move camp and aim for the most coveted objective: the Grand Capucin.

We arrive at Punta Helbronner, prepare our gear, rope up, and load our packs with only the essentials. Ahead lies the thin track across the glacier, more than two and a half kilometers where every step demands balance and experience. The loss of a leg is not an obstacle, but a condition that has pushed me to refine my technique, discover new balances, and strengthen my trust in my own abilities.

«When the wall turns vertical, the world narrows to the rock alone. »

The dance of granite: the “les suisses” route


The air is thin, sharp, almost biting. I feel the pressure of the harness and the cold rock beneath my fingers. The Grand Capucin rises before us like a titan of granite, austere and compelling. My mind empties, focused only on the next hold, the next movement. I have learned to read the rock differently: not as a limitation, but as an ongoing dialogue with the mountain.

When the wall turns vertical, the world narrows to the rock alone. Everything else disappears — the noise of the city, thoughts, worries. Only the mountain and the rope team remain. Every small feature becomes a precious foothold; every movement a negotiation with gravity. One particularly technical section remains vivid in my memory: slippery rock, tiny holds, my partner’s voice offering encouragement. My amputated leg moves freely while my body searches for the perfect tension for the next move. In that moment, I feel true freedom — not the absence of limits, but the ability to move beyond them.

And then, the summit. A smile, sunlight, the vastness of the Mont Blanc massif stretching all around us. It is not a victory over the mountain, but with the mountain. She welcomed us, and we answered with respect and commitment.

«Simple life, elevated thinking»

Beyond the summit


Every hold, every movement represents the culmination of a long journey of adaptation and growth. It is not only climbing, but a dance with gravity — a testament to human resilience. Sitting on the summit, I look toward the horizon as my thoughts become clear. I repeat my mantra: “Simple life, elevated thinking.”

In that moment, everything makes sense. The true summit is not the rock that has been reached, but the inner journey that brought me there — a path of acceptance and overcoming. And I know that even if the descent will be difficult, the most important challenge has already been won. I have learned that passion and perseverance are the strongest ropes for climbing any wall life places before us. The highest peaks are not always the geographical ones, but those reached with the heart.